San Francisco Travel Guide, Part 1: Shopping

As should be obvious by now, I ADORE my home city of San Francisco. I feel incredibly lucky to live here, as a result of both my own observations and experiences here, as well as comments I've heard from others while traveling abroad. Whenever I tell someone where I'm from, I inevitably get one of two responses: "San Francisco is the best place I've ever been!" or, "I've always dreamed of going to San Francisco!" And comments like that really help a person not to take their city for granted. I've been to a lot of wonderful places, but in the end none of them really feels like home the way San Francisco does for me.

So, having gotten a few requests from readers for a post about what to see and do while visiting  San Francisco, I present to you this mini travel guide to my own beloved home town. This will be a series in several parts, spread out over a couple of weeks. For the first installment I figured I'd focus on the topic foremost in many of our minds: shopping. I won't claim that this will be a comprehensive guide; it's just a collection of some of my favorite spots in town.

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Haight Street

Before I even get started talking about Haight Street, let me just make one thing clear: while the Haight-Ashbury neighborhood was once the mecca of hippies, and while a handful of stores in that area are still trying to capitalize on that history, San Francisco is NOT a hippie far-out peace-and-love granola-eating town where everyone is high all the time and there are vegan restaurants on every corner. I HATE that fucking image! Why can no one do a show about San Francisco and not mention hippies and tie dye and bongs? THE SIXTIES ARE OVER. I wish everyone could just let them go. 

That said, if you really want to see the dregs of what's left of hippie culture, I suppose the Upper Haight is the place to do it. Sigh. Despite that though, there really is some fantastic shopping in that area; I'd recommend going during the week if possible or before noon on the weekends of you want to avoid the crowds. If you want to get the full spectrum of Haight Street shopping in one day, start in the Upper Haight, and when the streets start to fill up with tourists and hipsters (or are those homeless people? It can be hard to tell.), make your way to Lower Haight to finish there (for more descriptions of Upper and Lower Haight, see this post). 

Some of my favorite shops in the Upper Haight: Ambiance (huge variety of designers and price points), Held Over (vintage clothing), Shoe Biz, John Fluevog, Goodwill, Decades of Fashion (high end vintage), Ruby (carries many local designers), Ceiba Records (steampunk/Burning Man styles), and Skunkfunk. As you go from Upper to Lower Haight, take a short detour down Divisadero Street to Swankety Swank (local designers), Prairie Collective, and Backspace. In Lower Haight proper there's a great import store called P-Kok, Lower Haters (locally-made art, clothing, and accessories), and new shops that seem to keep cropping up all the time.

The Mission District

The Mission District, once a largely Latino neighborhood, has morphed into Hipster Central in recent years. That doesn't mean it isn't worth checking out though; the hipsters rightfully love it because it's got cool bars, the best weather in the city (you'd be amazed how the weather can vary neighborhood to neighborhood in a city of only 7x7 miles), a wide variety of high quality restaurants, and you guessed it: great shopping. It also has one of the prettiest parks in town (Dolores Park), the old mission (which was one of the locations in Alfred Hitchcock's Vertigo), and lots of beautiful murals that adorn the walls around the neighborhood. I'll cover eating, drinking, and sights in other posts, but for now let's talk shopping.

Along the Valencia corridor between 15th and 17th Streets is the heart of the Mission's shopping area. Between Guererro and Valencia on 16th Street you'll find two of my favorites, Sunhee Moon and Candystore Collective; round the corner onto Valencia Street and you'll find Five and Diamond, which has the best variety of steampunk clothing in the city. Further along are MultiKulti, Weston Wear, and Therapy. In the other direction down Valencia (towards 15th) is a clothing-by-the-pound store, and ADS Hats. If you wander outside the 15th to 17th Street center, you'll find additional shops in the 21st to 24th Street area.

image source

Hayes Valley

Tiny Patricia's Green park, which interrupts Octavia Street where it meets Fell Street, is at the center of the Hayes Valley shopping district. Once a neglected corner of the city that decayed beneath a freeway off-ramp, the neighborhood had new life breathed into it when the ramp was damaged in the 1989 Loma Prieta earthquake and the city opted to tear the structure down rather than rebuild. Since then, Hayes Valley has undergone a complete transformation, and is now one of the most sought-after neighborhoods in town. Here you'll find high end shops mixed with neighborhood drinking establishments, excellent restaurants, some of the city's finest coffee served out of an old auto shop, and an innovative ice cream shop created from a ship's cargo container. Patricia's Green also features temporary art installations that made their debuts at Burning Man; the installation above is called "Ecstasy."

Along Hayes Street between Laguna and Gough are a bunch of great shops: Bulo (shoes), Lava 9, Duke et Duchesse, and several others. Just around the corner on Octavia Street, local designers Lemon Twist have a charming little shop. A few blocks away on Gough  (pronounced "Goff") Street, you'll find the best place to buy a San Francisco souvenir: Gangs of San Francisco. Forget about those dumb sweatshirts they sell down at Fisherman's Wharf; GOSF creates clothing that memorializes forgotten institutions of San Francisco's past, such as the Sutro Speedsters speed skating team, and the Bear Flag Rebels. Along the edge of the Patricia's Green is a tiny alley called Linden, where you can shop for the finest custom corsets in town at Dark Garden, and perhaps see some of my own hat creations as well.

Read more about the SF phenomenon known as the parklet here.

Noe Valley

Among locals, Noe Valley is known for its suburban feel; it's a little further away from the bustle of the city center, and it feels cleaner and quieter than other parts of town. People who can afford to stay in San Francisco after they have kids generally end up either here or in the Marina District. As much as I like to poke fun at people who live there, it really is a charming part of town, and one that's pretty well off the tourist path. It also boasts one of the finest restaurants in town; like I said I'll cover food in another post, but it bears repeating that Incanto is not to be missed. Make a reservation far in advance, spend an afternoon shopping in Noe Valley, and end the day enjoying one of the most phenomenal dinners you'll ever eat.

Along 24th Street between Castro and Church Streets is where you'll find most of Noe Valley's shops. There's another Ambiance store there, a number of other small clothing boutiques, as well as some cute antique shops, used book stores, and interesting handmade jewelry at Qoio.

Thrift Shopping in San Francisco

Some great thrift shopping can be done in San Francisco, but in general, expect to pay more than you're used to elsewhere. My favorites are the Goodwill flagship store on Mission Street, Clothes Contact (the aforementioned clothing-by-the-pound store), the Goodwill on Haight Street, and Out of the Closet at Church and Duboce. There's also Thrift Town on 16th and Mission Streets, but in my experience it takes a little more patience to find any real treasures there. The first two, as well as Thrift Town, can be wrapped into a Mission District shopping day (though the flagship store is a few blocks' walk away from all the rest); the Haight Street Goodwill is in the Upper Haight and Out of the Closet is a couple blocks away from the Lower Haight.

Another option would be one of several local flea markets. Every Sunday there's the Alemany Flea Market, which is free. On the third Sunday of each month is the massive Candlestick Park Antiques and Collectibles Faire, which is well worth the trip if your visit happens to coincide. There's a $5-10 admission to get in, but the selection is amazing and the prices are surprisingly good. Many vendors sell vintage clothing as well as other antiques. Finally, across the bay on the first Sunday of each month is the Alameda Point Antiques Faire, which is one of the largest flea markets around.

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Well, I think that ought to keep you busy; if you need more after all that, you're a far more dedicated shopper than I am. One final thought: I didn't cover the obvious shopping mecca that is Union Square, where you'll find all the big department stores, chains such as All Saints, Desigual, Urban Outfitters, and H&M, and high end designers such as Prada and Louis Vuitton. But my feeling is that you can get that same shopping experience in any big city; if you don't have those stores back home then it's worth a visit, but if it's a uniquely San Francisco experience you're after, you need to get away from downtown and head into the neighborhoods.

New York Part 2: Bloggers, Shopping, and Sights

I've finally compiled some more photos and thoughts from the New York portion of my trip. There's more to come from Seattle and Oregon, but I'll get to that later.

Big train stations are one of my favorite things to see when I travel. I spent a whole day in Paris just going to each of the major stations and wandering around before hopping back on the train and heading to the next one. So obviously I had to spend part of my first morning admiring Grand Central, which was right down the street from where Sal and I stayed.

Here's Gertie, Sal, K.Line and I after dinner at Republic and drinks at a nearby wine bar, where I tried to convince everyone to have a taste of my Fernet Branca. As I recall, Gertie was utterly horrified at the taste (most people are the first time they try it), Sal was too scared to even let it touch her lips, and K. Line actually seemed to enjoy it. I was fairly amazed to see it served in a bar in New York; I think of it mainly as a San Francisco phenomenon, and increasingly a Seattle one thanks to the tireless efforts of Jess and Lisa. I tasked K. Line with spreading the word in Canada about the wonders of Fernet, because my goal is to make sure it's readily available wherever I may decide to travel. And Canada is on my list!

As I've already mentioned, Sal, K. Line, Sara and I spent a day shopping together, starting off at Barneys and then hitting another couple of the big department stores before we finally wore ourselves out and had to reluctantly say goodbye. Sara is every bit as charming and sweet as she comes across on her blog, and although it was wonderful to finally meet her in person, I'm now missing her terribly and wishing we lived closer together. It's one of the hazards of travel; you meet lovely people who you will never get to see nearly enough.

Here's Kenneth, Peter, K. Line and Sal during our morning of shopping at the Chelsea flea market. I only met Kenneth for a couple of brief moments, and had no idea he was somewhat famous until K. Line told me later; but then again I've stood right next to celebrities on the street and been completely oblivious until whoever I was with pointed it out. The Chelsea market was fun; I enjoyed poking around the booths and listening to all the great New York accents, but I was a little disappointed when one of the vendors steadfastly refused to come down in price for a full length black silk skirted I wanted to buy. Even for silk, I felt that $75 was way too much to pay for a used skirt; from a vintage store I could maybe understand, but from a flea market I expect to get a better price. I did manage to pick up a pretty beaded choker for myself, and a few vintage brooches to use for trimming hats.

I snapped this forbidden photo (not realizing it was forbidden until the salesman rushed over to admonish me) in a fancy department store in Chelsea. I can't remember who the designer was, probably because I was nervous after being busted, but I just loved the liquid metal look of the fabric. You'd have to have a body like the mannequin's to ever actually wear this dress, but it was so gorgeous to look at that I wanted to remember it. If anyone knows the designer, please let me know. As I recall it was some exotic-sounding name that I imagined being very difficult to spell.

We couldn't leave Chelsea without a visit to the All Saints store, if nothing else than to see the window full of vintage sewing machines. Both Sal and I brought back some goodies from there; you'll see what I got in a couple of days.

Here's the night I met up with a whole gaggle of bloggers at the Empire Hotel, didn't eat any dinner, and proceeded to drink several GIANT martinis (hey, they were delicious; what could I do?). This group photo was taken earlier in the evening, when I was still coherent; from left to right we've got Stacy of Taffeta Darlings, Kristin of BonBon Rose Girls, Cameron of 33 avenue Miquelon, me, Wendy Brandes, and K-Line. Wendy let me try on both her Cleves Black Swan ring and the one-of-a-kind Onyx Skull ring, and holy crap were they amazing. She's lucky I didn't get up and dash out of the bar with them, never to be seen or heard from again. I hope she's insured for that sort of thing; her jewelry could turn even the most mild-mannered lady into a wanton thief.

The next day I made my way all the way out to Coney Island at sunset, where I had a hot dog at Nathan's and strolled along the boardwalk until the chilling wind drove me back to the subway station. I'd never been out there before, and I loved the deserted feel of it; I probably enjoyed it far more than I would have if it had been sunny and packed with people. Empty amusement parks have an eerie feel to them, sort of like a dusty old antique store but on a much larger scale.

On Monday night Sal and I met up with Rad and Blokey in Brooklyn; I was still feeling the effects of the night before at the Empire, which clearly shows in how haggard I look here. Interestingly, the three of us talked very little about blogging or fashion; Rad is clearly an intellectual first and foremost and that really comes across when you meet her. A smart woman with style is always a joy to hang out with, no matter how hungover you are.

Home at Last

Well I'm back, and boy is it good to be home. Despite the fact that I now feel like I've got a cold coming on, I had a great trip; I met many wonderful bloggers in New York and spent lots of time with my dear Sal, I saw both my friend Lisa and my sister Jessie get married, and I visited with family and friends. I also spent a great deal of time being cold and having dry skin. Again, being back in San Francisco feels great.

I'll try to put together a recap of my trip later this week or next, but first I need to get caught up on some of my pre-vacation outfits, of which this is one. In the meantime, check out these posts, which detail some of what I was up to:

• Sal's New York recap

• Sal's Eileen Fisher fall preview

• K-Line's New York recaps here and here (you should also check out the beautiful cape she bought while we were all shopping at Barney's together)
• A variation of what Sara wore for our shopping extravaganza
• Wendy B's Fashion Week recap -- including a great shot of several of us doing the Wendy B signature pose
• Cameron's recap of our blogger meet-up at the Empire Hotel (in which she mercifully does not mention how drunk I got)
• Rad's description of our Brooklyn meet-up (in which she mercifully does not mention how hungover I was)

I think that about covers them all. Also, be sure to stop by at Inside Out Style and take a look at the Stylish Thoughts guest post I did. Thanks to Imogen for including me!

Hat, sweater, socks: Noa Noa
Shirt: H&M
Dress: All Saints
Belt: Red Dress Shoppe
Tights: Foot Traffic
Boots: Bastien

Hello from New York!

I made it to New York, and I have to admit that the weather here is nowhere near as frightening as I feared it would be. It's cold, but the streets and sidewalks aren't covered in slush and I haven't seen a single snowflake yet. It's great to have a few days to explore the city, and of course, to hang out with Sal. Since I'm having a bit of trouble getting Flickr to post my images using my laptop, I think I may just take a hiatus from blogging, or at least from posting outfit photos. I'll be back to my regular posting on the 28th, and in the meantime Sal may be posting updates from her blog. See you soon!

Travel Series: Going Solo

It's been quite awhile since I've done a travel post, and since Meadow Walk gave me the great suggestion to do a post on traveling alone, I figured the timing was right. The photos included here are from solo trips I've taken.

                                                                                                                                                             

By nature I'm an extrovert, and although it might seem that would make it easy for me to meet people any old time I want to, the fact is that I still have the impulse to be shy when I don't know anyone. Extroversion and boldness are two very different things; I might not want to spend a lot of time alone because of my extroverted nature, but the natural reserve that most anyone feels in an unfamiliar place will doom me to that very fate if I don't make an effort to get over it. So traveling alone requires a certain strength of will, even for an extrovert like me; I think all but the most confident and unabashed among us will find it to be the same. But trust me, it can be done, and it's very, very worth it.

The first time I tested the waters traveling alone in a foreign country was on a trip I took to Japan in 2003 with my ex. Since he was there for work, I was left to my own devices for much of the time, and decided to take a couple of day trips on my own. On my very first outing I ended up in Hiroshima, where I was approached by a group of students of all ages who were taking private instruction in English. Their assignment for the day was to find and interview a native English speaker, and among a sea of Japanese faces I suppose I was pretty easy to pick out. The students were friendly and respectful; they asked polite questions about myself and about American culture, they gave me their email addresses and small gifts they'd made themselves. When I got back home we corresponded for quite some time afterwards; they would, as a class, send photos of themselves and brief updates on how they were doing. It was a simply amazing connection, and one I probably never would have made if I'd been caught up in traveling with a companion.

Berlin wasn't even on my travel itinerary in 2005, but I was persuaded 
to go by an Australian friend I made along the way.

In 2005, I decided to leave my then job and move to my current company, taking a 1 month break in between to travel. My first thought was, "Who can I convince to go with me?" Because no one hops on a plane and heads off to a foreign country for the first time all alone, right? Especially not a woman. But after I gave it some more thought and remembered all the great experiences I'd had by myself in Japan, I decided I was going to do the whole trip alone, and not only that but I was going to extend my break to 2 months. I wasn't even going to ask anyone to join me for part of the trip. So there!

I'll be honest with you, one of my first experiences on that trip was getting my wallet stolen in Rome and feeling utterly adrift. But as luck would have it, a few days before that I had met a friendly Chicagoan down in Sorrento, who I'd reconnected with in Rome and gone sightseeing with that very day. I called him as soon as I'd been pickpocketed, and he immediately offered to lend me cash and help me with anything I needed, including letting me crash in his hotel room. Ryan and I have been good friends ever since, and in fact it was he that Mark and I went to visit in Chicago this summer. It's amazing how kind people can be if you only give them the opportunity. And it's equally amazing how a seemingly terrible experience can lead to all sorts of wonderful things that you never expected.

That 2005 trip that started in Italy eventually took me all over Europe, to Iceland and back to the continent, and to places I hadn't even planned to go. And it was all because I went alone; in my guesthouse in Reykjavik I met a couple of Australians who would convince me to drop my plan to fly to Helsinki and instead drive around the country with them. One of them would end up accompanying me to Denmark and Sweden, and then convincing me to go to Berlin. By the end of my 2 month trip I had changed my flights 6 times, was giddy and elated, and was utterly convinced that I should travel alone as much as possible.

I could go on and on about the people I've met, both locals and other travelers from all over the world, and the great times I've had with them. I could tell you about the quieter moments spent alone, whiling away hours in cafes or poking around in shops or happening upon some one-of-a-kind experience when I least expected it. But rather than get carried away reminiscing in my own travel experiences, I'd like to share a few ideas for you to get the most out of a solo trip, because that's really why you're reading this post, isn't it?

In Brussels I discovered that the best dorm-mates are often the guys; they don't make a big fuss 

when they come in late at night and get ready for bed, and they generally don't get up at the crack of dawn.

Choose Your Own Adventure

Before you even set out, it's important to ask yourself what sort of experience you really want to have. For some travelers, the excitement of surrounding yourself with new people in a vibrant city is what it's all about, but perhaps this isn't your cup of tea. Maybe what you actually want are quiet, solitary walks in the woods and a chance to take in natural beauty undisturbed. In other words, don't plan a trip to Rome or Tokyo when what you really desire is the tranquility of the countryside. You can still meet people and experience a new culture in smaller, more out of the way places, but you can do it on your own terms. I don't believe that there's a single place on Earth that everyone needs to go see; if you think Rome might be too hectic for you, it probably is.

If you opt for traveling in more rural areas, you'll need to consider your means of transportation. Trains and other public transportation might not be able to get you all the way to your destination, so you'll need to think about whether or not you want to deal with a car. Personally I love the luxury of not having to drive for weeks at a time, so I tend to choose destinations that are readily accessible by train or bus. But I've also had some great experiences renting a car for a day or two and visiting the countryside as a day trip, or staying at lodgings that are a little off the beaten path and not right in the heart of downtown.

The view of Vienna from my hostel up in the hills; this offered a great balance between 

easy city access and the serenity of the countryside.

Security Tips for Solo Travel

Don't think just because I've gone all over the place by myself that I fly in the face of conventional wisdom when it comes to safety and security. As with any foray into the unknown, a bit of planning goes a long way towards keeping you and your belongings safe.

Choose your location:

• When deciding on a destination, take some time to read up on the current situation there. Let's be honest, some places are safer for solo women travelers than others. Check the US (or your home country's) travel advisories and tips for traveling abroad. Pick up a guide book; Lonely Planet books have a section in the back of each guide that details specific considerations for women traveling alone.
• When choosing a place to stay, do some research into the area of town in which it's located. Read reviews, go on Hostelworld or Hostelling International and read what other travelers had to say, ask people who've been there, and consult your guide book. Take some time to figure out how you'll get to and from the airport or train station and your lodging; it's all good and fine to stay in a safe part of town, but if the only way there is a dodgy bus line, you might be better off somewhere else.

Prep work:

• Before you leave, make sure you've left a photocopy of your passport with someone at home in case you lose it abroad. As added insurance, scan it and other important documents and upload them to Dropbox, where you can have ready access any time from a computer or your smart phone. It's also a good idea to bring a paper copy with you that you can lock in your suitcase.
  
• Bring an extra credit card and ATM card (from a different account than your primary) that remain in your luggage in case of emergency. This was the one thing I didn't do in 2005 and really should have; it wouldn't have mattered nearly as much that my wallet was stolen if I'd had another set of cards somewhere other than my wallet. You might want to open a special travel bank account just for that purpose; before the trip you can use it to stash money away and out of easy reach, and while you're traveling it can be an additional source of cash.
• Although I generally don't use one unless I'm going out late in a sketchy part of town, security wallets really are a good idea. Rick Steves, travel guru and surprisingly cool guy, makes a nice silk one that seems less irritating than some of the scratchy nylon models.
• A good purse is an investment worth making. I like a bag that lies flat against my body, has a heavy duty cross-body strap, and has hidden pockets on the inside for my most valuable items. Always go with a bag that zips completely, versus one that is held closed only with a single snap. Highway bags are my personal favorite.

Planning for your arrival:

• When booking your itinerary, make sure you have a reasonable arrival time so that you're not stuck trying to catch a cab or find a subway line late at night.
• Make sure you have the contact info for your lodging readily available; people who work at at hotels and hostels generally speak English and are a great resource if you hit a snag. I even had one hostel clerk in the Czech Republic who came and picked me up in her own car when I knew I'd be getting in late. When I stepped off the train there she was, holding up a little cardboard sign with my name on it. Awww!
• Get some cash in the appropriate currency before you arrive; few things are more stressful than arriving in a new place with no money. Exchange rates are typically poor in airports and other such locations, so don't get a lot of cash out, just enough to get you through the important first steps of getting settled in. 
• Know where you're going. Study a map and look over the train lines or bus stops that will get you from the terminal to your lodging. People who look lost are ideal targets for thieves and swindlers. If you're going to be taking a cab, know the address of your destination in addition to its name. It's a great idea to know how to say these things in the native language if at all possible; it's not unheard of for unscrupulous cab drivers to take you on an unnecessarily long route to get more money from you (smart phones can obviously help with this too if you can get a reliable signal). If you sound like you know what you're talking about they're less likely to take advantage. 

Once there:

• Look confident. You might not know exactly where you're going, but never let on that you don't. Don't walk along with your face pressed in your guidebook; if you need to figure out your route, stop and do it discreetly in a doorway, or even pop inside a cafe or shop to figure it out. If you're lost for a few moments, just enjoy the view until you find your way again.
• Keep your hand on your purse whenever you're in a crowded area. I love the cross-body bags because they make a good armrest as I'm strolling along, and I've always got control over the bag.
• Avoid keeping all your cards and cash in the same location. I always keep a little cash in my pockets for small purchases, so that I don't have to pull out my whole wallet. A spare set of cards stays in my locked luggage, and I only take a day's worth of cash with me at a time. This protects you not only from theft but also loss.

Some activities are naturally more meditative and lend themselves to a day spent solo. 

A day trip to the quaint Austrian village of Hallstatt is a perfect example.

Meeting People

Regardless of whether you choose a bustling city or a tiny hamlet, you will likely still want to meet people, and unless you're naturally gregarious and completely comfortable among strangers, you might also need to make a conscious effort to alter your social behavior. Here are a few tips for meeting people when you're traveling alone.

• Choose a lodging that fosters social interaction. Hostels are the obvious way to go, as most of them have common areas and many even have organized activities, tours, etc. for guests to take advantage of. Common kitchens, dining areas, and lounges are great places to meet up with other travelers, so make sure your lodging has one. I've sung the praises of hostels before, so click on over to this post if you'd like more info.
• Particularly if you're shy, avoid the temptation to get a private room and opt for a dorm instead. Unless you are exceedingly unfriendly, I can guarantee that if you stay in hostel dorms you will meet people. A good hostel will have secure lockers for your stuff, so don't sweat security too much. If you're a light sleeper, get yourself a good pair of earplugs and a pair of eye shades and you'll be golden.
• Make yourself available. You went to all the trouble to find a hostel or guesthouse with a common area, now get in there! Mosey into the lounge and strike up a conversation with whoever is there. It isn't hard to find things to talk about; ask what they've seen, where they're from, how long they're staying. When you're among other travelers, everybody has something to talk about. The vast majority of the time, when I've ended up finding a companion to spend the day sightseeing or a night on the town with, it has been another guest of the hostel I'm staying at.
• Don't think that hostels are the only way to meet people, either. Again, it's about making yourself available to others. If you go out to a cafe or bar, don't just sit there with your face buried in a book; start up a conversation with the person sitting next to you. The same goes for riding a train (trains are great places to meet locals, by the way) or visiting a museum or sitting at a park. People are naturally curious; often once they hear your accent they will want to find out more about you, so ask them a simple question such as directions to the theater and see if you can get them to engage in conversation.

The Auchwitz-Birkenau concentration camp, which I visited in 2007 with two other American travelers 
I met at my hostel in Krakow. It would've been very hard to go to alone, because it's so emotionally affecting.

Having Fun on Your Own

Finally, don't forget about the real luxuries that traveling alone offers: setting your own hours, choosing a busy itinerary or a completely relaxed one, doing exactly what you want when you want, choosing the time and location of every meal; the list goes on and on. I tend to be a haphazard traveler, preferring to have a very loose schedule that I can change at will, and sometimes even arriving in a city not knowing where I'll stay or even if I'll stay there at all. This type of travel stresses a lot of people out, but on the other hand it stresses ME out to travel with someone who has a minute-by-minute agenda that must be adhered to. When I travel alone everything is at my command, and I'm free to spend my time just as I like.

So don't forget to relish these luxuries; if the people at your hostel are planning an outing and it's too early in the morning for your liking, skip it and catch up with them when they get back. If you'd rather spend the afternoon people-watching at a cafe than looking at works of art in a museum, then by all means do. Again, I don't feel that certain things are mandatory experiences for everyone; I went to Paris and skipped the Louvre, even though most people would agree it's a must-see. When you're traveling solo, always remember that the trip is 100% your own.  

A fun day spent alone was my trip to the Lithuanian countryside to visit  
Grūtas Park, otherwise known as "Stalin World" by the locals.

Okay, over to you. Have you tried traveling alone, or would you? If you've got additional wisdom for would-be solo travelers, let's hear it!

Minneapolis and Chicago

At long last I've gotten my photos uploaded from the trip Mark and I took to Minneapolis and Chicago the week before last. As you undoubtedly already figured out, we stopped in Minneapolis for several days to catch up with Sal and Mike, and then went on to Chicago for a long-overdue visit with my friend Ryan. Sal has posted a couple of outfit photos of the two of us here and here, and below are a few more of my favorite photos from the trip. You can tell from Sal's photos that my hair does not love the hot, humid weather. It spent a large portion of the week plastered nice and flat to my head.

I snuck this 'behind-the-scenes' shot while Sal and Mike were taking blog photos. Mike nearly always has his camera in tow and can take outfit shots whenever the right moment arises. I'm a seriously envious blogger.

Our excellent tour guides, Sal and Mike. I love how Sal's dress matches the Gold Medal Flour sign behind her.

Another behind-the-scenes moment: Sal at her blog spot.

Nope, it's not stuffed; this eagle was totally showing off for us at the Raptor Center.

The obligatory trip to The Bean in Chicago.

I really loved this fountain at Millennium Park. I have to admit that living in San Francisco makes me miss classic summer scenes like this one. In SF it's just too damn cold most of the summer for anyone to want to play in a fountain, or even wear shorts for that matter.

I love the contrast and movement in this close-up of the fountain at First National Plaza. I think the soaring temperatures and heavy humidity made me extra inclined to take pictures of water.

We went up to the 16th floor of the Trump Tower for cocktails after taking the Chicago river architectural tour.

This flower sculpture totally reminded me of something you might see at Burning Man, only without the obligatory fire shooting out of it.

We had a great time taking in the sights, eating wonderful food, and soaking up the hot weather. The culinary highlight of the trip was definitely the 9-course dinner at Schwa in Chicago, where Ryan miraculously got us a table after several months of trying. In Minneapolis, Mark and I really enjoyed the play we saw with Sal and Mike, called The Mystery of Irma Vepp. The acting was fabulous and we were completely amazed by the rapid costume changes by the 2 actors, who played all the roles.

The best part was just leaving ourselves in the capable hands of Sal in Minneapolis and Ryan in Chicago; both are excellent planners and were armed with a full list of things to do when we arrived. Mark and I had been so wrapped up with our home buying before we left that we'd had very little time to think about an itinerary, and anyway I'm truly a lousy planner. I'm more of a grand scheme sort of person, preferring to leave the details to someone else. Thankfully we had such good friends to come through for us in the clutch.

Embracing the Wine Penguin

I thought today I'd bring you a travel-related post, since I haven't done so in quite awhile. It's not really about travel per se, but rather about a particular type of souvenir I sometimes bring back from my travels, and the meaning this kind of thing holds for me.

What you see here is what I affectionately call the Wine Penguin. I got it from a cheap housewares store in Buenos Aires, sort of a dollar store kind of affair but a step up in quality. The Wine Penguin cost me about $3, but its monetary value was ridiculously disproportionate to how much effort it took me to carefully pack and transport it through 2 flights and 18 hours' worth of airports, planes, security, and customs. Why all the fuss for a cheap ceramic pitcher, you ask? Well, because the Wine Penguin falls into a very special category of souvenir for me, the Quirky Local Thing category.

This type of pitcher is seen in almost every wine-dispensing restaurant in Argentina; sometime the pitchers are left plain white or brown, sometimes they are intricately hand painted, and often they bear the logo of the restaurant that uses them. It makes sense, too -- Argentina does have plenty of penguins, particularly down in the Patagonia region. And who could fail to be charmed by the sight of a plucky little penguin barfing wine into your glass? Jess and I certainly were, and soon we were noticing these pitchers pretty much everywhere we went.

Bringing a Wine Penguin home wasn't necessarily on the agenda the way my Republica Argentina buttons were, but when I saw one in the store I knew it was the perfect souvenir; something I could use all the time, that would remind me of my trip, and that was obscure enough that it made for a good story. The penguin was a Quirky Local Thing that I became familiar with through my time spent in Buenos Aires, and bringing one home was a way to integrate part of that local flavor into my everyday life. It isn't a blatant souvenir, it's just a little inside joke I share with Jess and with Argentina, and now with you. And that is the essence of the Quirky Local Thing: it's generally an everyday object that would easily be recognized by local people, but wouldn't get much notice from anyone else; it's a stealth souvenir.

It should be noted that Mark has not yet embraced the Wine Penguin. In fact, I think it's fair to say that he doesn't really see the point of the Wine Penguin. But every time I see it standing there waiting to pour me another glass, red wine dripping down its beak like a trickle of blood, I'm back in Buenos Aires at a rustic parrilla, with tango music and the smell of grilled beef in the air. My Wine Penguin is a small bit of Argentine culture transplanted to a little Victorian-style kitchen in San Francisco.

For more adventures with Wine Penguins, see the blog posts below. It seems I'm not the only one with a penchant for penguins!

from BrennerWorld: Penguins and wine go together, you just don't know it yet!
from Tableconversation: A Penguin to the Rescue
from Underground Art Blog: Terroir, Penguins, and Parrillas: The Inconsistent Pleasures

Travel Series Wrap-Up

Today I thought I'd combine a regular outfit post with a follow-up on my Making Your Travel Dreams a Reality series from the last couple of weeks. First up, the outfit. This one is another Jack Aubrey-inspired ensemble, which always seems a natural choice for this little jacket. I wanted to pair it with a more formal-looking top, so I chose this lace-embellished camisole, but felt it needed a bit of waist definition. I tried a couple of belts but found that the buckles were too distracting, so in the end I just took a wide piece of grosgrain ribbon and tied it in the back, which worked perfectly.

I have to admit that the heavy tulle skirt stuffed underneath the form-fitting olive one was a bit daunting at first, because it felt very thick. But since the fullness at the bottom of the skirt made a nice contrast with the nipped-in waist of the jacket, I went with it. In the end I was glad I did, because the whole outfit had the vibe I was going for, and the two skirts together made the most pleasing swishing sound when I walked, which really enhanced the feel of the whole thing.

Outfit details: Jacket - F21, camisole: Papillon, Olive skirt: Skingraft, tulle skit: Noa Noa, boots: Mia

Boat traffic on the Danube River, Budapest, Hungary

First up for the travel wrap-up part of the post, I thought I'd share the results of the survey I conducted, and how I plan to handle travel-related posts based on the results. Out of 97 responses, here's the breakdown:

- 66% would like to see me feature more travel posts
- 24% think they're ok once in awhile but not as a regular feature
- 10% say just stick to fashion

- Of those who like the travel posts, 75% would like to see them once a month and 16% say maybe once every 3 months.

Here's the breakdown of what topics you'd like to see me cover:
- Travel how-to's: 70%
- Destinations: 68%
- Budget Travel: 63%
- Travel-related links: 35%
- Other: 10%

In order to strike the best balance, here's my plan: I'll make the travel posts a regular feature, and post as often as I have topics; I'll shoot for roughly once a month but realistically it will probably turn out to be more sporadic than that. However, since some of you don't enjoy the travel posts at all, I'll post them on the weekends so that the number of fashion posts remains the same; those of you who aren't interested in the travel posts can then easily skip over them.

As for topics, the numbers that came up in the survey pretty much reflect the relative frequency of the topics I'd choose anyway, so the proportions should come out to mostly travel tips, destinations, and budget travel, with a few links and other tidbits thrown in from time to time as I find them. Several of you commented that you'd like to see me explore the relationship between travel and style, either as it relates to style in different destinations or to looking stylish while traveling; I will definitely weave these ideas into the posts as frequently as possible, since this is a style blog after all. Thanks to everyone who participated in the survey; it was very helpful feedback!

Spectacular art nouveau architecture in Riga, Latvia

And now, I'll circle back to some of the topics covered in my series, and see if I can answer a few of your questions as well as share some of your input with everyone else. Here are some additional thoughts based on the comments I received on my posts:

Renting a condo, apartment, or house: This is a great option if you're traveling with friends. I've rented apartments in Prague and Riga that I split with friends, and they came out to just slightly more than a sparsely-equipped hostel, and with a lot more privacy, security, and amenities. The gorgeous villa that my friends and I rented in Mexico in 2008 cost each person under $300 for the entire stay. This is a great way to have more luxurious lodgings on a budget.

Bed and Breakfasts are another great option for inexpensive lodging that offers a bit more comfort and charm than hostels. Airbnb.com is a resource I wasn't familiar with, but sounds like a great way to rent a room on the cheap, as is Couchsurfer.com. Fare Compare is a good resource for finding cheap flights.

Travel insurance: This is a great idea if your plans are at all uncertain, and particularly if you don't have medical insurance that will cover you while traveling. The cost is usually modest and can save you thousands if you need to cancel or have mishaps while abroad.

Studying abroad: If you are still a student, SERIOUSLY CONSIDER this possibility. You will not regret it! I'll tell you a little story about this. In college when I was studying herpetology (the study of reptiles and amphibians, not the herpes virus!), my class was offered an opportunity to do some field work in a remote region of Africa, which I passed up because I had a boyfriend, who I later married. I could've had an obscure species of frog named after me, and possibly my own Discovery Channel show; instead I got an ex-husband. Think about it.

A great example of how to think creatively about your options for travel (from Ali): "Last year, for example, I was waiting for my next job to begin and planned to move to a cheaper apartment. In the interim, I put everything in storage, and I spent a month and a half in Asia for the same price it would cost to barely survive here in California. In the end, I didn't sacrifice a dime more than I would've spent had I not gone. And I got an incredible experience in return." I just love stories like this; thank you for sharing, Ali!

If you travel for work, find out if you have the option of building in some extra vacation time at your destination. I did this in 2008 when I had a conference in Germany; my company covered the airfare and I ended up with one of my long flight days being built into the business part of the trip rather than eating up any of my vacation time.

Some additional thoughts on traveling with kids: Small-to-medium sized European cities such as Salzburg and Krakow got the thumbs-up from several readers. Camping was mentioned as a great low-cost option, and a good strategy seems to be to choose a central location and take day trips from there, which is far easier than packing up several times and traveling to a new destination. Regions with good local produce and hearty regional foods -- think France, Portugal, Italy, and Spain -- are great places to save money by buying produce, bread, and fresh cheeses from local markets and making your own meals.

Security: A couple of people mentioned this, so I'll spend some time on this one. I know that money belts are often touted as a travel must-have, but I have to admit that I generally don't use one. Why? Well, they're uncomfortable and they look bulky under my clothes, plain and simple. Plus it's a pain to get things out, and it usually means exposing my midriff to do so. But I'm a city gal and I'm used to city ways, so I figure I'll be fine in any other city I go to. That said, I was pickpocketed in Rome, however all the thief got was about 20 euros and a couple of useless cards, because I made sure not to carry anything irreplaceable in any conspicuous place like a purse. It all comes down to being alert, avoiding overly-crowded places, not being too bogged down with bags and luggage (which was my mistake in Rome), keeping track of your purse or wallet, and not getting suckered by con artists. Common sense is really all it takes, and honestly, getting a few things stolen is only the end of the world if you let it be.

As for violence or other safety concerns, do not let the media's sensationalism of isolated cases blow things out of proportion for you. Right now Columbia is widely considered to be one of the most dangerous places to travel, and yet it's also quickly becoming one of the hottest new destinations (and in fact, a friend of mine just went there and had no problems). It's my feeling that pretty much any place can be safe (though obviously I wouldn't recommend going somewhere like Haiti or Sudan), just as any place can be unsafe if you don't exercise good judgement. Most countries have some sort of travel warnings associated with them; in fact, the good old USA seems like a hotbed of terrorist activities according to the Australian government. It's important to keep some perspective.

Destinations: There were several people who chimed in with some great suggestions for destinations; I'll point you to the comments, particularly on Part III, for those. Among the cities mentioned were Istanbul (which is on my short list already), Marrakesh (ditto on the short list), Edinburgh (headed there this year, among other places), Languedoc, Gdańsk, and a few others.

The Goðafoss waterfall in northern Iceland

Finally, I'll do my best to answer a few specific questions that were raised. I'd love to hear what the rest of you have to contribute!

Natalia from Poland asked about travel in the United States. I haven't traveled too extensively around the US, so I'm looking to my readers for more input on this one. But what I can tell you, Natalia, is that the US is HUGE and you will have to do a lot of flying if you want to see more than just the Eastern seabord. A good sampling of the different regions might include New York, Chicago, New Orleans, Las Vegas, and San Francisco (C'mon, you KNEW I'd have to list my beloved SF; it's the best city in the nation!). But you're talking about a lot of flights, so it's going to depend on how much time you've got. Obviously from Europe, the east coast is going to be a lot easier to get to than the west, but as someone who is very partial to the west, I'd say it's a must-see. Readers, what places would you suggest?

H to the izzo asked which countries are on the cheaper side. This is a tough one to answer, because these days your single biggest expense in any trip is probably going to be the airfare, and oftentimes places that are cheaper to travel in aren't necessarily cheaper to travel to. Take Argentina for instance; you can have an amazing steak dinner with appetizers, wine, and dessert for around $30 per person, and yet good luck finding airfare from the US for under $800. On the other hand you can often find cheap flights to London and Paris, two of Europe's most expensive cities. So you really have to take the whole trip into consideration here. I'd start with finding the cheapest airfares, and then worry about exchange rates and all that. As long as you keep your airfare low and stay in hostels, you can make pretty much any destination work for your budget.

And finally, Sara from New York hit me with this rather tricky one: "If you had a small, small budget (of about $2,000 total) and could only travel from January to March, for about a week to 10 days, where would you go?" First off, the weather at that time of year is going to be an issue in much of the Northern Hemisphere, and I'm assuming that the Southern Hemisphere is going to be too far to travel for such a short trip. Unless you really love darkness and cold, you'll definitely want to avoid Scandinavia (plus it's an expensive destination anyway) and the rest of Northern Europe. So if I'm assuming correctly and you're interested in not freezing, then I'd start with places like Spain, Mexico, Belize, and so on. The weather won't necessarily be ideal at that time of year, but it'll be better than say, Denmark or Poland. Definitely start with the airfare to narrow down your choices. If you can keep your airfare low then you're in pretty good shape already. Assume you'll be able to find hostel or B&B-style lodging for $10-20 per person per night, which puts your total lodging expenditure at $400 tops. If you can then find a destination that keeps your airfare around $400 per person or less, you'll still have about $800 to play with, or $80/day for a 10-day trip. It'll be very tight, but you can do it. Finding the cheapest hostels can free up a little more cash for meals and other expenses. Good luck; I'd love to hear back from you as you're making your plans!

Near the Charles Bridge in Prague, Czech Republic

Thanks again to everyone who contributed to this series; it was a lot of fun to put together. Feel free to stop in and make requests for future travel topics at any time!

Making Your Travel Dreams a Reality, Part III

If you're just coming to this series now, I'd recommend getting caught up by reading Part I, which debunks some common excuses not to travel, and Part II, which talks about the money aspects of traveling. Today in my final installment, I'm going to discuss a few destinations that are great for families or for those who are new to traveling abroad and are seeking destinations that are less hectic than say, Rome or Tokyo. I'll also cover a few other things to consider when planning a trip.



Parisians enjoying a beautiful fall day at the Jardins du Luxembourg


Destinations for Families and Travel-Newbies

Not having kids myself, I'm obviously no expert on the family aspect of traveling, so I'll leave it to my awesome readers who have kids to stop in and share their tips and experiences. I have, however, been to many destinations that struck me as just perfect for families or for those that may be new to overseas travel; laid back, low-stress destinations that would be great places to find your traveling legs before you take on some of the more challenging locations. Today I'm going to share a few of those places with you.

Destination: Salzburg, Austria

Austria is one of my favorite European countries to visit, and Salzburg and the surrounding area tops my list of great family destinations. From the medieval fortress that looms high over the city to the towering alps that surround the valley, Salzburg is a place for magnificent scenery, clean air, and quaint, quiet streets. And who can beat the fact that it was the setting for The Sound of Music? Watch the movie at home to prepare for your trip, then tour the locations when you get there. There are several organized tours that are offered, some of which can get quite boisterous and silly, with a whole busload of people singing the songs en route to each location.

For the adults, there are also excellent regional wines to be sampled, as well as several breweries (including one operated by Augustinian monks) and beer gardens. And since Salzburg is the birthplace of Mozart, musical performances abound. A concert up at the Festung is a one-of-a-kind experience; nothing beats listening to classical music in a great medieval hall. There are also several interesting destinations that make great day trips from Salburg, including the Eagle's Nest, which was Adolf Hitler's remote meeting place during WWII, and the salt mines in nearby Bavaria. Not to be missed is the charming town of Hallstatt, accessible only by boat and containing a fascinating ossuary, where due to the limited space in the churchyard, people were dug up after 10 years and their bones placed in the charnel house.


The view of Salzburg from the Festung Hohensalzburg


Fuel your love of all things morbid at the ossuary in Hallstatt, Austria


Destination: Copenhagen, Denmark

Copenhagen is another of my favorite European cities, and nothing sums it up better than the Danish concept of "hygge" (also written as huggelig). Though the word is translated as "coziness," it really means much more than that: it's the feeling of being in a welcoming environment with good friends, good food, and plenty of good cheer. Copenhagen is loaded with charming boutiques, snug coffee shops, and cobblestone-lined streets and alleys that bring this concept to life.

Families will enjoy visiting several nearby castles, such as Frederiksborg Palace and Helsingør Castle, the inspiration for Elsinore Castle in Hamlet. Nearby Roskilde has a magnificent cathedral as well as the outstanding Viking museum, where you can see several Viking longships that were recovered from a nearby fjord. Copenhagen, and actually all of Denmark, is also an excellent place to rent a bike and go exploring; with its bike-friendly streets and flat landscape, there's really no better way to get around than on a bike, and it's also a great way to experience something that is an integral part of Copenhagen culture.


Fall colors at Frederiskborg Palace; Hillerød, Denmark

Destination: Krakow, Poland

Krakow is a charming city, and one that is rich with history. Though stifled under Soviet oppression for decades, Krakow is now a vibrant and lively town, where the old town square is still the actual city center, rather than strictly a destination for tourists. Here among the grand buildings and shop-lined streets you'll see couples walking arm in arm, and groups of friends headed out for an evening of fun. Surrounding the heart of the city is the wooded Planty, a narrow green belt where the old city wall used to be. While in town, be sure to ask a local to tell you the story behind the bugler who plays from the tower of Saint Mary's church in the old town square.

Though the experience is sad beyond belief, a visit to the Auschwitz-Birkenau concentration camp is a must, if only to understand the scale and importance of what happened there. As most of the WWII generation grows old and passes on, it's a way for the rest of us to maintain our perspective on the horrors of war and the dangers of allowing prejudice to become policy. Though it's certainly not a "fun" activity, it's an enriching and a necessary one. I think many kids in the US could benefit by seeing something so haunting and so sobering. We have so very much that we take for granted here; Auschwitz is a monument to sadness and loss on a scale that's hard to imagine.



The Krakow old town square at night


Planning for Time Off

You already know from Part I of this series how I feel about people who use work as an excuse not to travel. Sure, you might be busy at work, and perhaps you're even quite an important person at your company. But unless you're the sole owner and operator of your business, your colleagues can hold down the fort for a few weeks while you take a vacation. But of course there are other aspects of taking time off, which I'll discuss here.

• Don't put off big things until the last minute. Make sure you've arranged for pet care, a house-sitter, and time off from work at least a couple months in advance.

• Make sure you've arranged your finances well in advance so that money is accessible. Find out about credit card fees and ATM charges for oversees transactions, and if need be get a new credit card and/or transfer money to a different account. Don't let your financial institution hold your money hostage while you're away. It's also a great idea to carry a backup credit and/or debit card, which should be kept locked in your luggage just in case your wallet ends up in the hands of a pickpocket.

• Plan for bill payment while you're gone so that you don't incur late fees. If you're going to have someone drop off a rent check or other payment for you, be sure to make arrangements for that in advance.

• Before you leave, shut off and unplug as many appliances and other electronic devices as you can. Shut off the water valve to your washing machine too; what could be worse than coming home to a burst pipe and a floor covered in water and mildew?

• If you're worried about the security of your house, consider leaving your most precious items with a friend or family member for safe keeping. Better still, have someone house sit for even more peace of mind.
  

A picturesque canal in Bruges, Belgium


Other Considerations for Planning a Trip

An important aspect of travel which many people fail to consider is, what type of traveler are you? Are you a planner, who prefers to have a strict itinerary, or are you seeking spontaneity? Would you rather spend quiet days perusing ancient libraries and museums, or is it nightlife you're after? Do you like big cities, quiet countrysides, the major tourist destinations, or the places no one's ever heard of? How you prefer to travel is especially important in determining who you want to do it with.

I often prefer to travel alone because I have a fairly haphazard approach, often changing flights and other arrangements along the way, or arriving in a city without first booking lodging (do NOT do this if you travel in the high season!). Many people aren't comfortable with traveling that way, and for myself I feel bogged down with having to adhere to a schedule. Don't be afraid to go it alone if you can't find anyone to go with you, or if you're not sure of a potential travel mate's compatibility with your style. And unless your traveling companion is just as committed to taking the trip as you are, there's a chance they may keep you waiting indefinitely and in some cases forever. I love the freedom and flexibility of traveling solo, and I find that I meet many more people that way.

Remember also that it's perfectly fine if it ISN'T your dream to travel; the important thing is to recognize it and be ok with it. You might be surprised to hear that Mark isn't a big traveler; for him a trip once in awhile is fine, but it's not something he's passionate about. It actually works out great for us because he takes care of my apartment and pets while I'm gone; he's happy to see me doing what I love and I can travel with greater peace of mind, knowing he's at home taking care of everything. So don't just travel because you feel like you ought to; if it's not your cup of tea then don't go, or consider just spending time exploring your local area instead.

Finally, here are a few other random things to consider:

• Many countries require that your passport is valid for at least 6 months after the date you're planning on departing, so make sure you allow plenty of time for a renewal if need be. On a similar note, find out about visa requirements far in advance. Always leave a copy of your passport at home, and take a couple extra copies with you to keep locked in your luggage or some other secure place.
  
  
• Vaccinations may be recommended depending on where you're going (typically jungle areas or third world countries), so be sure to find out.
  
• How far in advance you book your airfare and lodging depends on many factors: how locked in your schedule is, what time of year you're going, and whether you're using frequent flyer miles to book your airfare. I'd say 2-3 months in advance is sufficient unless you're doing something like going to Munich for Oktoberfest or to Rio De Janeiro for Carnivale. If you're planning your trip around a major festival or holiday, you'll probably need to book it at least 6 months in advance, especially your lodging.
  
  
• Always check the current TSA regulations to find out what can be carried on. Also check the rules for whatever country you're flying in and out of. For instance, Mexico requires that you're checked in and at the airport an hour before your flight, and they also do not accept boarding passes printed at home. Knowing the rules before you travel saves you a lot of stress later.
  
  
• Another great resource for American travelers (or travlers to the US) is the US Department of State website. There you'll find info on passports, visas, and all sorts of info on different countries.
  
  I hope this series has inspired you and answered whatever questions you may have. Now let's talk travel! Stop in and comment, ask questions, share ideas for destinations or tell me where you're going next. I love talking travel even more than I love talking fashion!